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Sunday, 26 June 2011 15:41

At the third of July we left Holland for our first high altitude experience at Gross Glockner Austria.

We arrived at Lucknerhaus (1920m) by car for the first night of sleep in the hut. At night we sorted out our bags and left out all the unnecessary equipment. Went to sleep at 9 PM and woke up at 5 AM to leave the hut and walk to the Studlhutte (2800m). We arrived at Studlhutte at 9:30 AM and ordered some nice warm Nudelsuppe as a breakfast. We rested for an hour and left to the Studlgrat for our first summit attempt. At 1 PM we arrived at the foot of Studlgrat (3200m) and realized that we were late and should turn back to Studlhutte.

We arrived at Studlhutte at 3 PM and had a drink and rested a little. Then we went up to the bivaks, there we met Sonja and Michal from Czech Republic, later on they would turn out really nice people. We got some Czech beer and ate some Salami. Then we went down to play the card game they taught us it was called "Raining". The game was doable except for the Aces, Kay always forgot that it was 1 waiting turn, and picked the two cards.

Later on at 7 PM we went in for the meal, which was really comfort, we had a 3 courses meal, and played the cards afterwards again. That was when Olga, the Russian girl came to sit at our table telling she was solo on the mountain and looking for some people willing to share a rope group. Finely we decided to trust she was able to make it to the top.

We drunk some more beers and went to sleep. Sietse would have a terrible night with all of the noises in the bivaks. Next morning at 5 AM we woke up and packed our bags to leave for breakfast. There Olga joined us and we left at 6:30 AM. Sonja and Michal would leave a bit later to catch up. We walked up to the kodnitzkees which is a beautiful glacier to cross it over up to the Adlersruhe. We did this in 2:30 hours which is really fast indeed. Sonja and Michal cached up half way.

Then we arrived at Adlersruhe at 9 AM to rest a little and make up for the summit. We warmed up, put on the gloves, hooked up all the materials grabbed and the new ice axes and go for it. We started of crossing another ice field not so steep in the beginning but it would soon turn very steep. After that we all felt a little sick due to the altitude. We pushed on to the Klein Glockner (3770m) when we could see the cross of the Grossglockner (3798m). Also we could see the tricky Glocknerleitl, we needed to descent the Kleinglockner a little to cross the Glocknerleitl and then ascend the Grossglockner.

Finely at 4PM we were standing on the top to take some pictures with ourselves and of course the flag. We didn't stay long because there was a long way back waiting for us. So we decide3d to turn back and descent. We secured ourselves with rope and ankers and started rappelling. Again we needed to cross the Leitl to head up to the Kleinglockner again. We needed 2 hours from grossglockner to kleinglockner and then the descend started. Wetter was turning very misty and we almost couldn’t see each other. We descended to Adlersruhe and there was Michal outside waiting with a cigar worrying about our descent. We went in and got some Spaghetti from Olga as thanks for the assistance. Then at the table Sonja was telling se asked Michal on the top to marry her. So Michal got a beer to celebrate. Also there was some nice played music with a song text regarding the route we just walked. Sietse played chess with Olga (like the daughter of Kasparov) so he lost. Then at 9 PM we went up to the bivaks and all went to bed and laugh about a lot of things. The best was that Olga said she was freezing cold, Kay also had cold and wanted to tell that luckily he was not the only one. Only his English at the time was not so well and he said "So then it's not my problem".

The night was horrible for everyone except Sietse, we were all suffering altitude sickness a little, eyes were closed and open every minute or so. In the morning Kay felt really sick and received a pill out of Michal's medicine closet for muscle relaxing. Also had a cup of tea. Then we left off for the descent over the grat. Kay was feeling really sick then and needed to puke down at the grat from the altitude sickness. That's where Michal arrived and put warm clothing and gloves on me. He also gave me a glucose shot which was really a comfort, I felt well within 10 minutes. Sonja made some hot tea at the grat by melting snow. I love those two and thank them for all help! Then we left for descent to the Studlhutte, where we realized that Sonja and Kay were sunburned in the face.

We walked on from there back to the Lucknerhaus where we had a meal all together as a celebration we have all made it up and down. Then we drove Michal and Sonja back to the car. And afterwards we dropped Olga at the foot of Grossvenediger. She will do another attempt this week. Then Sietse and Kay drive home.

It was one of the most beautiful experience of or lives!

Video:

http://www.alpineteam.nl/index.php/video/viewvideo/104/gross-glockner-jul-2011/grossglockner-20110705wmv

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Last Updated on Sunday, 10 July 2011 17:13
 

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